What this actually means
Understanding the fault
Fill faults trigger when the machine does not reach its target water level within an allowed time — the control measures rate, not just presence. A partial restriction therefore produces the same code as no water at all, which is why "the water is on, so it cannot be the supply" leads people to replace the wrong part.
Try these first — they cost nothing
Free checks before you buy any part
Work down the list in order and stop when the symptom clears.
- 1
Open both supply valves fully
Half-open valves are common after a machine has been moved. Both hot and cold must be open even if you only wash cold — many machines fill through both to reach a target temperature.
- 2
Clean the inlet screens
Shut the water off, unthread the fill hoses at the machine, and look into the ports. Small mesh screens there catch sediment. Rinse or pick them clean, and do not remove them permanently.
- 3
Check for kinked or crushed fill hoses
Look behind the machine. A hose pinched against the wall restricts flow enough to trip a slow-fill timeout without ever fully stopping the water.
- 4
Confirm real household pressure
Your model's manual lists a minimum supply pressure. Compare flow against another fixture on the same line: if a nearby tap also runs weak, the supply is the problem rather than the appliance.
No code on the display?
When your appliance shows nothing at all
If the drum stays dry with no code, confirm the machine actually entered a fill state. A door or lid that has not latched looks exactly like a fill failure. Listen for the valve solenoid clicking as the cycle starts.
Where to look
Common causes to check
- 1Supply valve partially closed or turned off
- 2Clogged inlet screen filters at the machine ports
- 3Kinked or collapsed fill hose
- 4Low household water pressure
- 5Failed water inlet valve solenoid
- 6Water level pressure sensor or air dome tube fault
- 7Door or lid lock not confirming, so fill never begins
Know where to stop
When to call a professional
Electrical testing of the inlet valve means working near live terminals. If the screens and supply check out, that is a sensible point to hand off.
Read the full safety disclaimerMatch your code
7 related Washer error codes
If your appliance displayed a code, find it here for the diagnostic sequence specific to your brand. Codes vary by model, so confirm the full model number before ordering any part.
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7 guides found
Code E11
E11 code triggers when fill time exceeds standard limit during wash cycle.
Code E22
GE washer E22 code indicates water fill rate was too slow or failed to reach level sensor target in allotted time.
Code IE
LG IE error triggers when water level fails to reach appropriate threshold within allowed fill time.
Code UE
UE error indicates an imbalanced load. Lowercase 'uE' means machine is attempting auto-correction; uppercase 'UE' requires manual intervention.
Code 4C
Samsung washer 4C (formerly 4E) indicates water is not entering the tub within the designated time frame.
Code 5C
Samsung 5C (or 5E) signals the washer failed to pump water out of the drum during drain cycle.
Code F8E1
F8E1 (LF) triggers when the washer fails to fill with water within the expected time limit.