What this actually means
Understanding the fault
A washer that will not drain reports one of the most predictable faults in the appliance. The control starts a drain phase, watches the water level sensor, and throws a code when the level has not dropped far enough within the window that model allows. That code tells you water did not leave. It does not tell you the pump failed, and in most cases it has not.
Try these first — they cost nothing
Free checks before you buy any part
Work down the list in order and stop when the symptom clears.
- 1
Clean the drain pump filter
On many front-loaders this sits behind a small access panel near the bottom front. Put a shallow pan and towels down first because retained water may drain when the filter opens. Coins, hair clips, lint, and other debris are common restrictions.
- 2
Check the drain hose for kinks and height
Drain height requirements vary widely between models — check the installation specification for your exact machine rather than a general rule. Too low and the tub siphons; too high and the pump cannot lift the water. Pull the machine out and look for a hose crushed against the wall.
- 3
Test the standpipe or disposer connection
Test the standpipe with a controlled amount of water appropriate for the drain. If it backs up or drains slowly, the household drain may be the problem rather than the washer. On units draining into a disposer, confirm the inlet was opened correctly during installation.
- 4
Listen to the pump during a drain cycle
Start a drain and spin, then listen. A steady hum with no water movement usually means a jammed impeller or a failed pump. Complete silence more often points to a control, wiring, or lid-switch problem than to the pump itself.
No code on the display?
When your appliance shows nothing at all
Plenty of washers hold water without ever showing a code — older top-loaders in particular have no level feedback to fail on. Every check above still applies. If the pump runs and the filter is clear, suspect the drain hose or house plumbing before any electrical part.
Where to look
Common causes to check
- 1Clogged drain pump filter or trapped foreign object
- 2Kinked, crushed, or incorrectly routed drain hose
- 3Blocked house standpipe or capped disposer inlet
- 4Failed drain pump motor or seized impeller
- 5Water level pressure sensor reporting the wrong level
- 6Lid or door lock fault preventing the drain phase from starting
Know where to stop
When to call a professional
If the pump is clear and running but water still will not leave, or you find water in the machine base pan, stop. Persistent leaks and control board faults are worth a service call rather than parts guessing.
Read the full safety disclaimerMatch your code
8 related Washer error codes
If your appliance displayed a code, find it here for the diagnostic sequence specific to your brand. Codes vary by model, so confirm the full model number before ordering any part.
Diagnostic search
Find the exact guide you need
Search by brand, appliance, error code, symptom, likely cause, or replacement part.
8 guides found
Code E20
E20 or E21 indicates the washer is taking too long to pump water out of the machine.
Code E30
E30 code indicates GE washer failed to drain water completely within the pre-set drain window.
Code F02
Kenmore F02 code indicates drain pump is taking longer than 8 minutes to empty wash water.
Code OE
LG washer OE error indicates the machine failed to evacuate water within 13 minutes.
Code SD
SD or Sud code triggers when control board senses excessive suds in outer tub during cycle.
Code 5C
Samsung 5C (or 5E) signals the washer failed to pump water out of the drum during drain cycle.
Code Int
Int indicates that the washer is still finishing a paused or canceled cycle, including stopping and draining.
Code Sud / Sd
Sud or Sd means excessive suds are preventing normal spin and drain behavior.