What this actually means
Understanding the fault
Spin faults split into two groups that need completely different responses. Balance codes mean the machine tried, detected uneven weight, and stopped to protect itself — that is the machine working correctly. Motor and speed codes mean the drive system never reached commanded RPM, which is a real hardware question. Work out which group your code belongs to before touching anything.
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Free checks before you buy any part
Work down the list in order and stop when the symptom clears.
- 1
Redistribute the load and retry
One heavy item — a bath mat, a hoodie, a single towel — is the most common trigger. Add two or three similar items to balance it rather than washing the item alone.
- 2
Confirm the machine drained first
No washer will spin with water in the tub. If you also see standing water, the real fault is drainage and the spin code is downstream of it.
- 3
Check that the machine is level
Rock each corner. A washer on an uneven floor triggers balance protection constantly at high speed. Adjust the feet and tighten the lock nuts.
- 4
Verify shipping bolts were removed
On a recently delivered front-loader, unremoved transit bolts cause violent noise and immediate balance faults. They come out of the back panel.
- 5
Spin the drum by hand
With the machine off, the drum should turn freely with slight resistance. Grinding, scraping, or a drum that drops noticeably when pushed suggests worn bearings or broken suspension.
No code on the display?
When your appliance shows nothing at all
A drum that fills and drains but never spins, with no code, often means a broken drive belt on belt-driven machines or a failed lid switch on top-loaders — by design, these will not spin with the lid reading open.
Where to look
Common causes to check
- 1Unbalanced or single-item load
- 2Water still in the tub from an unresolved drain fault
- 3Machine not level or sitting on a flexing floor
- 4Worn suspension rods, shock absorbers, or springs
- 5Broken or slipping drive belt
- 6Lid lock or door lock not confirming closed
- 7Motor control board or rotor position sensor fault
- 8Worn drum bearings
Know where to stop
When to call a professional
Bearing and suspension work means substantially disassembling the machine, and on many models the labor exceeds the value of an older washer. Get a quote before committing.
Read the full safety disclaimerMatch your code
10 related Washer error codes
If your appliance displayed a code, find it here for the diagnostic sequence specific to your brand. Codes vary by model, so confirm the full model number before ordering any part.
Diagnostic search
Find the exact guide you need
Search by brand, appliance, error code, symptom, likely cause, or replacement part.
10 guides found
Code E20
E20 or E21 indicates the washer is taking too long to pump water out of the machine.
Code F02
Kenmore F02 code indicates drain pump is taking longer than 8 minutes to empty wash water.
Code OE
LG washer OE error indicates the machine failed to evacuate water within 13 minutes.
Code UE
UE error indicates an imbalanced load. Lowercase 'uE' means machine is attempting auto-correction; uppercase 'UE' requires manual intervention.
Code 5C
Samsung 5C (or 5E) signals the washer failed to pump water out of the drum during drain cycle.
Code UB
UB (Unbalanced) or UE code triggers when load distribution prevents safe high-speed spin.
Code F0E5
F0E5 code indicates an off-balance wash load prevented the unit from reaching full spin speed.
Code F5E2
Whirlpool washer code F5E2 indicates the main control board detects the door switch or lid lock assembly is not locking correctly.
Code F7E1
F7E1 indicates that the motor cannot achieve the expected speed for the selected cycle.
Code Sud / Sd
Sud or Sd means excessive suds are preventing normal spin and drain behavior.